I strolled into Soho’s Despaña and caught a glimpse of some large pork legs - three golden limbs hanging, three others nestled in wooden ham holders. I was curious as to why they were showcased so specially, so I asked Tony, one of their experts. They are “Jamon Iberico and Jamon Iberico Bellota,” he replied and explained that these meats come from black hogs raised in a unique environment and under specific diets to produce ham of unparalleled quality. Given that they are quite expensive at $99/lb for the grain-fed Jamon Iberico and $159/lb for the acorn-fed Jamon Iberico Bellota and had been illegal in the US up until 2007, they are not easily acquired and remain mostly untasted by American tongues.

In your 2006 Tastemaker Awards, you honored Taylor Griffin for being responsible for the importation of this ham to the US. However, there has not been a feature written on this ham’s production, delicate flavors, interesting journey from the Iberian Peninsula to the US, and why it deserves such accolade, which I would love to write about.

I hail from the Philippines, a country that ranks number one on Anthony Bourdain’s “Heirarchy of Pork,” which means a love affair with the meat comes naturally to me. I have experienced it in a variety of ways - from wholly roasted, to its insides chopped and served sizzling, to meaty chunks served in its sweet blood. But this ham, deep red and evenly marbled, is rich, nutty, and creamy like no other, bringing something new and delightful to the palate and definitely worth a review.

I am a designer turned aspiring writer who blogs about adventures in food and travel at klgvillanueva.wordpress.com. My knowledge and experiences should produce an informative and entertaining story for Food and Wine. If interested, please call me at 757-575-6155. Thank you for your consideration and I look forward to hearing from you.

I strolled into Despaña, a shop specializing in gourmet products exclusively from Spain, in awe of all the gastronomical goodies, examining every can and bottle, grabbing one taste sample after another. What really caught my eye, however, were majestic pork legs. I have never seen them like this - three golden limbs hanging behind the counter and three more nestled in wooden ham holders. As I stared at the ham in curiosity and longing, I spotted a burly olive-skinned man with one blind eye sporting a black shirt and a red apron. He introduced himself as Tony.

“What are those?” I inquired. “Special ham. It’s from the same breed of swine, but we carry two varieties, Jamon Iberico and Jamon Iberico Bellota” he replied with a knowing grin. He explained that they are special because they come from black short-haired hogs with ebony hooves native only to the Iberian Peninsula and are prized for their unique flavor and high quality. Supposedly, even though this cured ham had been around for centuries, it was banned from the US for a very long time due to past threats of “foot and mouth disease,” wherein hoofed animals infected humans with certain viruses. During this time, smuggling the Jamon Iberico or “Pata Negra” was the only way Americans could access the meat until finally, in 2006, the USDA agreed to legalize its distribution, as long as the hooves were cut off. In 2007, the first shipment was brought in.

Intrigued and eager to try new treats, I ordered both kinds and teased Tony that if I suddenly fell ill, I would sue them. “If you get sick, I’d be in trouble too because I eat a lot of that,” he chuckled. It was also a good thing I asked only for four slices each because as it turned out, the ham was unapologetically expensive, given its rarity and the brutal amount of tariffs tacked on its importation. The retail price was $99/lb for the grain-fed Jamon Iberico and $159/lb for the acorn-fed Jamon Iberico Bellota.

What’s the difference between the two kinds? Well, the pigs, which are raised with care, are categorized according to their diet. Jamon Iberico is ham that comes from hogs that graze freely in the fields eating grains as regular pigs do. Then, there is the more highly regarded Jamon Iberico Bellota, which is the product of pigs placed in oak forests, also known as “la dehesa,” to feast mainly on acorns or “bellotas.” After their carefree life of eating and roaming, the animals are then slaughtered, and their meat is salted, hung, and left to cure for about two to four years. Within that period, they can lose up to 40% of their body weight, after which they are released for consumption.

When I got home, I sat on the floor in front of my coffee table and methodically unwrapped the ham’s brown packaging. There they were, arranged side-by-side, fine slices of scarlet meat, glistening and evenly marbled with white fat. The Jamon Iberico boasted a deeper hue and was ever so slightly thicker than the Bellota. I pinched a morsel off with my fingers, and as soon as it hit my tongue, I tasted a flavor like soy sauce, but with only a hint of salt. It had a smooth, tender texture and its earthiness and creaminess was more notable than that of say, prosciutto or Serrano ham.

I already thought the Jamon Iberico was extraordinary, but when I tried the Bellota, I couldn’t believe it could get even better. The paper-thin and almost transparent slices were so delicate, they tore off effortlessly with each tug. Unexpectedly rich, this pork was so buttery it practically melted in my mouth. It wasn’t overwhelmingly salty, and my palate discerned both sweet and nutty notes, something I’ve never encountered with other cured hams. And apparently, the acorns with which they are fed are a great source of oleic acid, the same chemical found in healthy olive oil. Crazily enough, this means eating the Bellota will actually help increase good cholesterol and lower bad cholesterol! The fact that it is both delectable and healthy proves how the Bellota deserves to be on par with other luxurious delicacies such as white truffles, beluga caviar or wagyu steak.

I promised Tony I wouldn’t be a stranger, and I don’t plan to be. I would like to try Despaña’s other offerings, perhaps the Chufi, a tuber drink, a bit of Morcilla sausage, or some honeyed pecans, but most certainly for some Jamon Iberico and Jamon Iberico Bellota, even if I could only afford four slices at a time.